THIS HAN IS HOME TO SILVERSMITHS AND OTHER METAL WORKERS’ WORKSHOPS. I stumbled into this old han back in the summer and have since returned. It’s exactly the sort of place that makes me love Istanbul. Located in Sultanahmet it’s out of the way, cracked and crumbling, easily overlooked but still thriving with life. Part of the reason I’m being vague about its name and location is because I’m afraid some crass developer will come in, knock it down and plunk some horrible hotel or shopping mall in its place. AN ALATURCA LAMP-MAKER’S WORKSHOP. Right now it’s home to all sorts of ustalar (tradesmen), mainly working in metals like silver, copper and brass. There’s a massive courtyard in the center, and just about every bolt hole is occupied by some form of life or trade.