• Places

    Clashing Rocks: Not Quite Epic.

    Rumeli Feneri is built on one half of the legendary Sympleglades, Cynaean Rocks or Clashing Rocks that once came together to crush hapless ships at the Black Sea mouth of the Bosporus. Jason and the Argonauts defeated them by issuing a bird first in order to  spring the Sympleglades prematurely. The bird lost its tail feathers between the rocks and the Argo sailed boldly through before they could  clash together again fully. After this, the rocks ceased to move. After a cursory look over the last couple of days at both Rumeli Kavagi and Rumeli Feneri, I don’t think there’s any danger of the rocks or much else springing to life. This landscape feels more tragic than epic, more crumbling than clashing. It’s a shame. This is legendary terrain, but you wouldn’t think so from looking at it. This place could use a loving touch, but it doesn’t seem to have…

  • Places

    Aboard The Trabzon

    Ashore, the Bosporus seems like a broad passage, deep and easily navigable. From the bridge of a 229-meter freighter, the scale and proportion of things changes — dramatically. You realize that there’s nothing straight about the world’s most romantic, if not most important, strait. The Bosporus is a twisty, mighty and highly dangerous waterway. And if not accorded the respect she deserves, could easily prove lethal to many. That’s why on Sunday morning I shook off the previous night’s Easter celebrations and hastened in a taxi to Rumeli Kavagi, camera in hand, in order to to board Ciner Shipping’s 6-month old freighter, the “Trabzon.” I wanted to capture at least something of life aboard one of these incredible vessels which slip up and down the Bosporus on a daily basis. It was an awe-inspiring experience, and one that’s deepened my respect for those who live their life at the mercy…