• Mind / Body,  Photography

    Volumes of silence, Part II.

    ESCAPING THE MIDDAY CRUSH. FROM THE BOSPORUS TO THE SEA OF MARMARA. How and where do you find quiet, urban dwellers? Do you or don’t you? I love city life, but it’s so easy to get distracted, sucked into a vortex of sound, movement and confusion. Do you go to a library, do yoga, get a massage, or instead clamp on the headphones  and blast out all the other noise with your preferred brand of clamor? I’m interested. Do you find quiet? Is it enough?

  • Art / Design / Craft,  Photography,  Places

    The Hidden Han.

    THIS HAN IS HOME TO SILVERSMITHS AND OTHER METAL WORKERS’ WORKSHOPS. I stumbled into this old han back in the summer and have since returned. It’s exactly the sort of place that makes me love Istanbul. Located in Sultanahmet it’s out of the way, cracked and crumbling, easily overlooked but still thriving with life. Part of the reason I’m being vague about its name and location is because I’m afraid some crass developer will come in, knock it down and plunk some horrible hotel or shopping mall in its place. AN ALATURCA LAMP-MAKER’S WORKSHOP. Right now it’s home to all sorts of ustalar (tradesmen), mainly working in metals like silver, copper and brass. There’s a massive courtyard in the center, and just about every bolt hole is occupied by some form of life or trade.

  • Photography

    Volumes of silence, Part I.

    KARAKÖY QUAY, MID-MORNING. In a city of 15 Million, it’s not always easy to find space, let alone quiet to fill it. But Istanbul is full of surprises, whether you’re in ferry-crowded Karaköy, or Sirkeci Train Station. Can you feel the silence? Amazing.